When planning a trip to the UK, most people focus on the big cities like London, Manchester, and Edinburgh. But there are also some hidden gems worth exploring. One of them is the Isle of Man, a small island in the Irish Sea. I was surprised how few people knew about it when I started planning my trip. Most people know about it because of the Isle of Man TT, the island’s annual motorbike race.
Day 1
The Isle of Man is connected to the UK, Ireland, and some European countries by air and several ports by waterways. I flew from Edinburgh and landed at the Isle of Man airport in a short while. The first thing I saw when I stepped out of the airport was the triskelion symbol of the island — Three Legs of Mann. You can see it everywhere on the island, with some variations of it having the motto — Quocunque Jeceris Stabit, which means Whithersoever you throw it, it will stand.
There’s a good network of buses that take you to different towns on the island, and other modes of transport (that also serve as tourist attractions) are only available during the warmer months. A bus ride from the airport took me to Douglas, the capital of the country and its busiest town.
Douglas is on the eastern coast of the island, and there are a bunch of hotels lined up next to the promenade by the sea. It’s the most well-connected town on the island, and there are a lot of local businesses, restaurants, and souvenir shops. After checking into my hotel, I went for a peaceful stroll along the promenade. I hit the hay early to make the most of the next day.
Day 2
The rain had been pouring non-stop since the night before, and it didn’t look like it’d stop anytime soon. But I had a delicious breakfast at the hotel, so I was ready to brave the weather and make the most of my day. As I stepped out, the sea that was so calm the night before was now raging and crashing against the city walls. I took a short walk along the promenade and reached Derby Castle Terminus, the starting point of the Manx Electric Railway. These electric trains run next to the road from Douglas to Ramsey, stopping at Laxey. They go uphill at a pretty slow speed, so it was perfect to soak up the view of the city as we moved. Even with the clouds blocking the view, the coastline of Douglas looked stunning. I got off at Laxey to visit the first and probably the biggest attraction on the island, Lady Isabella.
Lady Isabella, also known as the Great Laxey Wheel, is the biggest working water wheel in the world. It used to supply water to the coal mines higher up the mountain. The giant red wheel has spiral steps leading to a platform on top, where you can see the water lines towards the mines and feel the wheel moving underneath.
A few yards away from the wheel is an underground trail to the coal mine. It’s not in use anymore, so it looks more like a cave with the remains of the tracks that led to the mines.
I spent a couple of hours in Laxey, then I went back to the station to get on board the Snaefell Mountain Railway to the top of Snaefell, the highest point on the island. The train (more like a cable car) travels along monorail lines built along the hills and is powered by overhead electric cables. As we started the journey, I could see the Great Laxey Wheel and the old coal mines from the train, and a pre-recorded commentary told me about the tragic abandonment of the mines.
The weather was a real challenge on my Snaefell adventure. Clouds made it impossible to see anything, and once we reached the summit, it got even worse. It was stunning to be surrounded by clouds, but the rain and wind were too strong. So, I joined everyone else inside the Snaefell Summit Café, the only place to hide from the storm. The trains run every thirty minutes, and for a moment, I thought about going back on the same train that dropped me off at Snaefell. But I decided to wait for the next one and, since I was freezing in the rain, I ordered a coffee and a cake.
The way down was pretty boring, even the mines were covered in clouds. But the weather seemed to improve once I got back on the train from Laxey to Douglas. The Douglas Bay Horse Tramway also starts from the Derby Castle terminus and goes up to Broadway in the middle of the Douglas promenade. I know it sounds crazy, but the tram is motorized and does most of the work. I talked to Siobhan, who worked at the stable with the horses, and she said the horses just trotted ahead of the tram at their own pace. The driver kept the speed of the motors in check so they wouldn’t run into the horse.
It got dark soon after I reached my hotel. I’m glad I decided to face the weather because I had a great time on the rides and the Laxey Wheel. But since I couldn’t see anything around Snaefell, I’m planning to go back another time in the next few days.
Day 3
The weather turned for the better, so I decided to head south. I took a stroll along the bay and ended up at the Douglas station. From there, I boarded a train to the southern town of Port Erin on the Isle of Man Steam Railway. These coal-powered trains have a vintage look, and the carriages are like cosy cabins that can fit around four people. The train chugs through the countryside, and with the sun shining and the engine puffs of smoke disappearing into the sky, I felt a sense of calm wash over me. The journey from Douglas to Port Erin takes about two hours, but I decided to take a detour and got off the train at the Castletown station to check out Castle Rushen.
Built around 1200 AD for a Norse king on the shores of Castletown Bay, Castle Rushen has been the home of many kings and lords of Man, as well as a war fortress and a Victorian prison. It’s one of the best-preserved castles, and being a history buff, I couldn’t get enough of it. Some mannequins and plaques show different events and rules, some of which are even interactive. There are stairs leading up to the roof that gives you a great view of the town and the coastline going south.
I spent about three hours exploring the castle, and I met Mark and Judy, who work for the Manx National Heritage. They had so many interesting stories to share! After picking up a souvenir at the gift shop, I walked along the bay to the Castletown Lighthouse. You can see even more landmarks from there, like Scarlett Point and the Herring Tower. The Old House of Keys and the Old Grammar School are also nearby. The House of Keys used to be where Manx politics happened, and the school was a place of worship and later a school for important families.
I took a bus from Castletown to Port Erin, a busy town on the southwest coast of the Isle of Man. About a mile from the Port Erin beach are The Eye of Bradda and Milner’s Tower, two landmarks that look over the town and have views of the Calf of Man. I was starting to feel tired from all the exploring, so I decided to take the steam train back to Douglas and call it a day. The views of the countryside were amazing even on the way back, as the sun was setting. When I got to Douglas, I stopped at the Little Fish Cafe by the quay to try Queenies, which are bite-sized bay scallops and a Manx speciality.
Day 4
I had planned a boat ride from Port Erin to the Calf of Man, but the weather forecast predicted rough seas later. So, I decided to explore the Snaefell instead. The sun was shining brightly, and the sky was clear, making it an ideal day for a hike.
The view from the top of Snaefell was breathtaking. The clouds were gone, revealing the stunning landscape below. I could see the abandoned Snaefell coal mine, stretching out as far as the eye could see. The Laxey River flowed through the centre of the mine, creating small waterfalls. Sheep and horses grazed peacefully near the railway line, and the Irish Sea surrounded the island.
The sea, the natural beauty, and the distant towns made for a truly magical view from the summit. I took my time, soaking it all in. The sky was so clear that I could even see the shores of the British Isles and Ireland in the distance. I grabbed a coffee and a cake at the café, and after walking around the summit for almost an hour, I headed down to Laxey.
On my way back, I stopped by the Great Laxey Mines Railway. It’s a single-carriage train powered by steam that passes through a small tunnel and ends halfway up a trail to the Laxey Wheel.
Up the hill west of the wheel is King Orry’s Grave, a burial chamber believed to be thousands of years old. The graveyard has been divided into two parts, East and West since people started settling in the area in the 1800s. The larger West part of the site has the King Orry’s Stone, which marks the entrance to the burial chamber.
I took a bus back to Douglas, and after a quiet dinner of sandwiches and a drink at the hotel, I decided to call it a day.
Day 5
My next stop was Peel on the west coast of the island. It’s probably the second busiest town on the island and home to the Peel Castle, the House of Manannan, and other cool landmarks. On an hour-long bus ride, I caught a quick peek at Tynwald Hill, where Tynwald Day (or the National Day of the Isle of Man) celebrations happen every summer.
Judy, who I met in Castletown, was working at the Peel Castle that day, and it was great to catch up. The castle, most of it in ruins now, is on St. Patrick’s Isle and looks out over the sea. Some parts, like the Round Tower and the cemeteries, are in better shape, while the cathedral, chapels, and other buildings have been left to decay into skeletal remains. The half-a-mile-long boundary wall has plaques marking the castle’s importance in Manx history. The place also has prerecorded commentary to guide you through the different sections of the castle.
A short walk from the castle is the House of Manannan. The museum takes you on an interactive journey through the history of the Isle of Man, from Viking king artefacts to the 1800s when Peel was a busy port for trade and sometimes warfare. Stories of different eras are told through film, scripts, and with the help of mannequins. The immersive storytelling made me lose track of time, and it was almost closing time when I finished exploring almost all the museum’s sections.
It was the end of summer, and it was almost the end of lobster season. So, I headed to The Boatyard Restaurant and ordered their lobster specials and a drink to wrap up my trip to Peel.
Day 6
After three lovely days, the weather turned sour again. I had planned to stop at Cregneash on my way to the southernmost part of the island, known as The Sound. Cregneash is a small village where you can experience the countryside and see the four-horned sheep and the Manx cat. But with the bad weather and not knowing where to take shelter, I decided to take a cab straight to the Sound.
Once I reached the southern shores, the howling winds made it hard to stand and admire the natural beauty of the place. The sea was a beautiful shade of moss green, and across the waters, the Calf of Man was being hit by huge waves (no wonder all the boat rides were cancelled). By the time I took a few pictures of the Thousla Cross, it started to rain, and it was freezing.
I went into the nearby café, which was packed with other visitors and some locals. I found a corner to have some smoked Manx Kippers, queenies, and hot chocolate. As the weather got worse, I had no choice but to get into my waiting cab and head back to the hotel.
I spent a quiet evening listening to live music by the hotel bar, indulging in a delicious steak sandwich, and a couple of drinks.
Day 7
My last full day on the island was a blast, and I saved the best attraction for last – The Manx Museum. This place is a treasure trove of island history and culture, with Viking treasures, temporary exhibits, and galleries. You’ll see Viking armour, taxidermy mounts of animals and birds, historic proclamations, and war memorabilia. There’s so much to see and do that you could easily spend hours here. Plus, it houses the National Library and a gift shop with cool souvenirs to learn more about the island’s history and take home some special memories.
I spent the rest of the day exploring the promenade, trying out some local restaurants, and shopping for souvenirs.
Day 8
My day began with a delicious breakfast at the hotel, followed by some leisurely window shopping at nearby stores. I spent a while relaxing by the sea, basking in the sunlight. As the morning wore on, I decided it was time to bid farewell to the island and checked out of my hotel.
I took a short walk to the Isle of Man Sea Terminal and got a close up of the Tower of Refuge as I boarded the ferry to Liverpool. After a few train changes from Liverpool and London, I finally made it to Edinburgh.
From the author
The weather on the Isle of Man is super important for having a good time. Make sure you have enough time to explore all the cool stuff during your visit. Most of the attractions like the Mountain Railway and Peel Castle are only open during the summer months, so you will miss out on them if you go in the winter or fall. The busiest time is usually in July and August around the TT season and Tynwald Day.