If you are an Indian, who does not watch a lot of Western cooking or dining shows, chances are that you may not be aware of the concept of a tasting menu.
Some establishments across the country offer tasting menus to their patrons, but they are few, and most come at a significant cost.
One such establishment offering tasting menus is Avartana, a progressive South Indian dining restaurant located within the ITC Grand Chola Hotel in Chennai. The restaurant offers five different options – a seven-course, a nine-course, an eleven-course and two thirteen-course menus. The five menus bear Sanskrit names, and all except one provide the customer with an option to choose their preference for vegetarian or non-vegetarian dishes. The food can be paired with wine, while individual drinks can be selected from a separate menu.
Ambience: 8.5/10
Service: 7.5/10
The restaurant is chic, and the decor is stylish, cosy and welcoming. The comfortable seats, perfectly adequate lighting and soft background music create a delightful ambience. Although there can be an odd miscommunication, the service maintains a consistent rhythm. The front-of-the-house staff are attentive to dietary requirements, well versed with the menu, and decent with their suggestions.
Food: 8.5/10
The food, however, is the main star of the experience. I tried their thirteen-course menu called Anika (Sanskrit for graceful). The first item to arrive at the table was Tomato Coriander Rasam, served in a martini glass as a palate cleanser. It remains the best version of the tangy, sour soup I have ever had. Every item that followed was all meticulously prepared, plated and served. Despite the modern twist, the use of relevant Indian ingredients maintains the traditional aroma and flavours of the dishes.
The standout dishes were the Asparagus Coconut Stew with Turmeric Coconut Cream and Idiyappam and the Uthukuli Butter Chicken Curry with Malabar Parotta and Butter Toffee. The portion sizes, as is standard for a tasting menu, appear small at the beginning, but by the end of the thirteenth course, I felt full without being uncomfortable. I went for a glass and a refill of Campo Viejo Viura 2017, which was light and blended well with some of the delicate dishes.
Pricing: ₹2500 per person
Recommendation: 8.5/10
The tasting menus at Avartana are priced between ₹2500 and ₹5000 without drinks. Given the location of the restaurants and the quality of food and service, the pricing is justified. It is more of an experience and is perfect for celebrating special occasions.
Avartana is now also present within ITC Royal Bengal in Kolkata.
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